The ArgumentOpinion / internal correspondenceWorkforce
Female Partner Asks What Revenue Her Leggings Must Generate to Become “Performance Tailoring”
The firm has embraced performance fabrics, but only when performance can be measured in the correct gender.
By An equity partner at Pemberton Rook · · 2 min read

I have a simple question for the Pemberton Rook executive committee: how much revenue must my leggings generate before they become performance tailoring?
Charles has spent the summer wearing a navy quarter-zip, technical trousers and shoes which are either trainers or very ambitious office loafers. People describe Charles as commercially relaxed. His wardrobe demonstrates confidence, agility and an instinctive understanding of the modern client.
I wore black leggings to the office last Thursday. The head of administration asked whether I had come from a class.
“Charles is wearing technical trousers. I am wearing leggings,” I explained. “They are made from the same material, bought from the same shop and manufactured to accommodate the same basic activity: sitting down.”
Charles's trousers are apparently client-led. Mine are a conversation about professional standards.
I therefore submitted a written business case to HR. It included my billings, client-retention history and a comparison of the elastic content of the relevant garments. I offered to take responsibility for any deterioration in my advice attributable to the waistband.
HR thanked me for my constructive approach and referred me to a Women's Network session entitled Bringing Your Whole Self to Work, Within Reason. I was told the conversation would be more powerful if we approached it as an issue of confidence rather than rules.
I am extremely confident. That does not appear to be the problem.
Extract from the correspondence
Me: “Please confirm the financial or seniority threshold at which sportswear becomes leadership attire.”
HR: “Dress is best evaluated in the context of an individual's professional brand.”
Me: “Is Charles's brand a fleece?”
HR: “We would encourage you not to make comparisons with colleagues.”
A senior partner later suggested that the difference was not technical but one of perception. I agreed. He appeared relieved until I asked whose perception counted and why it seemed to have its own dress allowance.
The matter remains under consideration. At our next executive meeting Charles wore a zip-neck top with a golf-club logo. Nobody mentioned it. I wore tailored trousers and a blazer. Charles asked whether I was going somewhere afterwards.
I said I was hoping, eventually, to go somewhere in this firm.
Something worth not billing for.
Get The Unbillable every week.
Appears in The Brief, Issue 005
Related stories

Investigations · Leaked programme with annotations
Solo Atlantic Rower Paid to Explain Teamwork to Partnership That Cannot Agree on Lunch
A Pemberton Rook retreat speaker crossed an ocean alone and was then asked how he would have handled the firm's executive committee.
By Celia Firth22 Oct 2026 · 2 min read
Re: Partnership
Firm Makes Partnership Achievable by Renaming the Reasons People Do Not Achieve It
Alderwick March reports universal advancement after moving every unsuccessful candidate into a more encouraging column.
By The Unbillable12 Oct 2026 · 3 min read
Re: Associate Diary
My First 100 Days as a First-Year Associate
Amelia Pike learns how to draft a notice provision, locate the current draft and identify the deadline nobody has told the client about.
By Amelia Pike6 Oct 2026 · 4 min read

